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Le
Chateau de Craon
If you have ever wondered
what it may have been like to live centuries ago in a grand chateau in
rural France now is your chance to find out.
Le
Chateau de Craon, a magnificent white stone confection, built in 1770
just prior to the French Revolution by the Marquis d'Amaille opened its
doors to the public for the first time 3 years ago and now invites you
to come and live the life for one night (or more) within the boundaries
of its private domain.
The main part of the
Chateau containing the former state rooms and most of principal bedrooms
has been reserved for the use of guests while the present family,
the Comte and Comtesse, Loik and Helene de Guebriant, live a cosy family
lifestyle with their six instantly likeable children in one of the
wings. A kind of modern day 'Upstairs-Downstairs' arrangement but in
reverse.
You
will wake each morning in one of its soaring, elegantly furnished
bedrooms each with its own en suite antique bathroom cum dressing room.
All the bathrooms have retained their original fittings installed in the
19th century and are equipped with marble topped washbasins and clawed
foot bathtubs so deep a wooden step is provided to help you get in and
out.
The furnishings have
been selected as much as possible from the ancestral stock remaining
faithful to the original décor and family history. All
of the bedrooms are spacious and distinctive but the Baldaquin Suite
with its sumptuous canopy bed and Louis XVI salon seating is not
surprisingly most often the choice of newly weds.
Loik
and Helene clearly enjoy the company of their guests and their good
humoured, easy going manner will soon make you feel at home in their
home. This is helped not least of all by their fluent English and their
willingness to speak it. In the evening you will be invited to join them
for pre-dinner drinks in the chateau's beautiful Music Salon lined in
red silk and furnished with an Erard grand piano which guests are
invited to play.
When there is a
chill in the air a fire is lit filling the room with the aroma of the
park's aged oak. The Music salon looks out onto Craon's French style
garden created in 1930 by the
Marquis d'Andigne, step-uncle to the present Comte. When completion of
the chateau's grounds was cut short by the Revolution they remained so
until the dedication of the Marquis made his contribution to the history
of Craon by finishing the formal layout as he believed it was originally
conceived. The small town of Craon lying at the end of the vista makes
an unforgettable sight at sunrise when seen through the morning mist.
Breakfast is served communal
style around a large oval table in the stately dining room encouraging
conviviality amongst the guests. The Music room has also been reserved
for this purpose where you can relax in the evenings when you return
from your evening meal.
 
Being a listed historical site of
interest, the chateau is open from April to October in the afternoons to
day visitors who wish to come and view the ornamental gardens or walk
through the extensive 40 hectare parkland. Laid out in a romantic
English style in 1830 it was considered the height of fashion at that
time when the idea of symmetry had fallen from favour. Within the park
there are over 5kms of footpaths and riverside walks in which to wander
freely, a wood of ancient oaks and a small 'secret garden' containing a
rare species of palm, Nandina domestica, adapted to northern climates by
its particular resistance to frost.
 
Help yourself to a little rowing
boat moored at the bank or hop onto the pedalo and just take off for a
lazy meander downstream. For those who ride, horses can be arranged and
for those who don't cycles can be provided to further encourage the
exploration of the vast park and grounds. Having ironed out some of the
kinks from underused limbs you may now be ready for a game or two of
tennis followed by a swim in the chateau's pool…. Whatever takes your
fancy. The byword at Le Chateau de Craon is laid back informality.
From the secret garden planted on
the site of the old quarry 3 steep staircases have been cut in the rock.
Here you may climb up to the Allee des Rouliers or Waggoner's Walk that
leads back to either the chateau or the kitchen garden. This highly
ornamental walled vegetable garden (Potager) of over 12,000sqm around
which Loik delights in conducting tours for his guests is complete with
three 19th century greenhouses restored in the 1990's. The first is an
unheated 'lean-to' type structure while the second was heated and used
for 'propagation' before growing on the seedlings in the vinery or
orangery. Today the garden supplies vegetables for the household and the
cut flowers that decorate many of the rooms. The original Orangerie
essential to any chateau of its time for guarding its orange trees from
frost during winter was converted into a house in the 19th century when
the green houses were build in the kitchen garden. Today it provides
additional accommodation for wedding parties or self-catering
accommodation for short breaks.

A number of other old
outbuildings tucked away within the grounds make interesting stops along
your walking tour. Be sure to visit the Bakery with its huge oven and
grinding stone and the Ice House that stored snow and ice from the river
in winter to be used during summer as the Chateau's refrigerator. Every
great household relied on its Washhouse to deal with its innumerable
pieces of dirty linen. Here it was brought by cart to be dealt with by a
team of washerwomen over a 4 day period two or three times a year before
being rinsed out in the river and laid out to dry on the neighbouring
meadow.
The stables built at the same
time as the Chateau contain a few bedrooms above the huge haylofts used
for the staff. Later in the 19th century a coach house was added to hold
the family's numerous carts and carriages some of which are still in use
when the Chateau hosts a wedding. A staircase between the 2 coach houses
leads to the old Bakery and the Chateau.
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